On a trip to Maui several years ago I came upon the phenomena of local surfers and windsurfers drastically understating the size of waves. I’d look out at walls of water six to eight feet high, and later hear locals referring to the waves as having been three to four feet. At first I thought this was a function of Maui being laid back to the verge of insanity, but later I heard that wave height was judged from BEHIND the wave (how this worked watching the waves from shore I had no idea.)
Bill at Pono House explains how when the Hawaiin surf report says three feet you should be prepared for overhead. I also found this article looking at the clash between Hawaiin surf forecasts and the National Weather Service forecast.
Good to know. For myself I like to relate them to myself on the board (ie chest-high) or rig (logo high.) I prefer to leave mast-high waves to video.
P.S. After three weeks in Maui I realized that I’d been the insanity was mine. Lunch at the Fish Market, anyone?
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