I learned an important lesson yesterday about riding waves. I knew it before, but yesterday I had it tattooed on my leg:
Do not stay on an overhead wave that is about to close out on you, no matter how much fun you're having.
Here's how I learned: On my third wave of the day I was shooting down the line (that's what it felt like…it's more likely I was modestly riding a nice right) 6-7 feet high, when I saw the closeout coming. But I felt so good I thought "maybe it will all work out," and stayed with it instead of kicking out or diving off.
The board with me on it inverted and then crashed down, hard. I rolled up into a ball with my arms around my helmeted head. About two seconds into the wash cycle my board hit my left thigh hard. There was a goodly amount of pain, and after I managed to get back to the outside I needed to sit on my board for five minutes until the pain mellowed. For the rest of the day I excelled in kicking out, jumping off, changing direction and petitioning the gods to keep me from riding into a close out.
Driving home after the sesh I noticed the thigh throbbing. When I got out of the van twenty minutes later, I could not walk. Nearly 24 hours later and my thigh is still swollen and in pain.
Do not stay on an overhead wave that is about to close out on you, no matter how much fun you're having.
Jon Ford and Scott have advised me thus every time we've been out in the waves, windsurfing or SUPing. I no longer need to be told.
I am in pain.
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