Sometimes its wavy, sometimes it’s flat, and sometimes the swell just doesn’t want to play ball. Earlier this week the swell was weird at Cryder. Waves would pop up, start to jack, then sit back down, move left or right and pop up somewhere else. It was like playing Surf-A-Mole. I spent a whole lot of energy paddling like mad to get on waves that weren’t, and in the end caught perhaps two good rides. The Wolf and Jon got more (as usual). I left frustrated, which was new for me. Humiliated and/or humbled are my bread and butter. Oh well, better waves next time!
(Top: Will it or won’t it? The Wolf atop a maybe wave. Bottom: Jon got one. Photos by Remy McFadden.)


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