I was almost embarrased to mention it, but I wanted to talk about the left I'd just taken. Long, playful, fun…the wave was maybe 18" high. But it held its shape and kept pushing!
The Wolf understands these things. So I told him. It was the two of us, plus Jon Ford, his son Nick, five kids on ginormous foam SUP boards, and a half dozen surfers at Fly's.
Yes the waves were (very) small. But at that size you can paddle right back out through the middle of them and grab another and another. I went out for an hour and probably caught 15 waves. Lefts and rights thank you very much.
Am I silly to post about this? I know…
Leave a Reply to MacCancel reply