"C'mon, it was a great day!"
Not for me.
"You're glad you were here!"
Nope.
"Every day in the water is a good day!"
I don't know about that.
The truth is I did in fact have a good time at Tiana on Sunday…for about 45 minutes. There were plenty of six foot sets coming in (with the occasional meaty seven plusser that would get everyone howling) and it seemed like a great day was upon us. But then the inside got choppy and the current fought to keep you in the impact zone, and I am the worst in the world at finding the channel to get back out. 90% of the time I just don't see it. So after the first glorious 45 minutes, the rest of the day looked like my spending 30 minutes struggling to get back out (and getting pummeled) for every wave I caught. An inventory of things I lost in the impact zone:
Skin on both knees
Skin on forearms
My hat
Remaining shreds of self respect.
At some point during the day I did catch one memorable ride, sharing a long left with Jeff, but mostly the day left me feeling grumpy. I'll look back and laugh about it just as soon as I get back out there and have a decent time. Meanwhile, an inventory of people who either had a good time or whose irrepressible joy was greater than mine includes:
Scott
The Wolf
Peconic Jeff
Peter
Christian
CD
CD's daughter, seen surfing a head high + wave and being ho-hum about it on the beach
CD's wife, whose gift of fried chicken revived me after my Atlantic beatdown.
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